Abaco: A Bahamian Island: Snorkeling with Wild Spotted Dolphins

 

Great Abaco Island, part of the Bahamas archipelago, is a hidden gem that offers a wide range of attractions for vacationers and adventure seekers. From stunning natural scenery to rich cultural heritage, Abaco has something for everyone.

     One of the island's most captivating natural wonders is the Sea of Abaco, a shallow body of water located on its eastern shore. The sea is home to a pod of wild Atlantic Spotted dolphins, which are a popular attraction for snorkelers and scuba divers. The Sea of Abaco is also rich in marine life, with patch reefs and colorful fish species that make it an oasis for snorkeling and diving enthusiasts.

    I explored the Sea of Abaco, a shallow body of water with calm waters and fun to snorkel in. It was shallow, 25 feet deep at the deepest part, and was full of patch reefs, like oasis's in the Sea of Abaco, full of sea life: moray eels, squid, parrot fish, butterfly fish, barracuda, and colorful angelfish.

     If you venture to Abaco, you must experience the pod of wild spotted dolphins that live in the Sea of Abaco. It’s a large pod, a group of around 200 dolphins that are known for their friendly and curious nature towards humans. They often joined me while I snorkeled, eyeballing me curiously as I ventured into their domain. They are part of the Atlantic spotted dolphin species and are identified by the distinct spotted pattern on their skin.

     The pod is led by a matriarchal female and consists of various subgroups and alliances that work together to hunt for food and protect the pod from predators. I was amazed at their acrobatic displays. They jumped out of the water and spun in the air around me. Were they showing off?

     In the spy thriller Mission of Vengeance, CIA spymaster Corey Pearson studies this pod of wild spotted dolphins. To conceal his true identity and purpose, Pearson assumes the cover of a marine biologist who researches their behavior and communication patterns.

     Another popular attraction on Abaco Island is the string of smaller islands, called cays, that line the eastern shoreline. Great Guana Cay is one of the most popular cays and offers a range of activities, including swimming, kayaking, and paddleboarding. Other cays, such as Elbow Cay and Man-O-War Cay, offer opportunities for hiking, exploring historic landmarks, and sampling local cuisine.

     Nipper's Bar is a popular attraction on Great Guana Cay, which I think is one of the most beautiful Abaco cays. It's a vibrant beach bar and restaurant that offers a fun and lively atmosphere for tourists and locals alike. With its brightly colored umbrellas, comfortable lounge chairs, and stunning ocean views, Nipper's Bar is the perfect spot to relax and soak up the sun. You can  sip on tropical cocktails and enjoy fresh seafood dishes while listening to live music and socializing with other travelers.

     On Sundays, Nipper's hosts a legendary party known as the "Sunday Funday" where you can dance the day away to the sounds of the live DJ and enjoy the incredible pig roasts and beach volleyball tournaments.

     I enjoyed Nipper's Bar so much that I mention it off and on in my spy thriller novels. Definitely add a visit to Nipper’s on your ‘must-do’ list. And, who knows, maybe you'll even spot a CIA spymaster like Corey Pearson from "Mission of Vengeance" enjoying the island life!

     Exploring the dozens of remote cays lining the easter shore of Abaco made me feel like Robinson Crusoe. I discovered the birthplace of the Goombay Smash cocktail after renting a Boston Whaler boat and motoring across the Sea of Abaco to the tiny Green Turtle Cay.

     I strolled through its village, named New Plymouth, and walked into a small bar called Miss Emily’s Blue Bee Bar to escape the searing sun outside. I ordered an unfamiliar drink of Miss Emily’s called the Goombay Smash. Yes, Miss Emily's Blue Bee Bar in the Bahamas is  the birthplace of the Goombay Smash...if you venture to Abaco, put this on your ‘must-do’ list!

     For those interested in wildlife and conservation, Great Abaco Island is home to the Bahamian Parrot, which is being protected from extinction by conservation efforts. In 1988, I volunteered to help save the Bahama Parrot in the pine barrens south of Marsh Harbor, the capital. I worked with the New York Zoological Society, live-trapping feral cats that were decimating the parrot population.

     The Bahama Parrot actually nests underground in limestone fissures. There is now a 20,000 acre preserve set aside for them that's designated the Abaco National Park, a beautiful forest for you to hike in and explore. Chances are, you will run into the endangered Bahama Parrot. 

     If you want a real adventure on Abaco, here’s an idea for your next vacation. Fly to Abaco and tour the Abaco National Park. It’s southeast of Marsh Harbor off the Great Abaco Highway. You may even discover the unpaved road to Abaco's lighthouse at a mysterious place called "Hole in the Wall". Unfortunately, hurricane Sandy devastated the lighthouse, but the journey there is still worth it. It is 15 miles off the Great Abaco Highway, in the middle of nowhere. Exploring the Abaco National Park and journeying to "Hole in the Wall" would make for an adventure all in itself.

     For spy thriller enthusiasts, Abaco Island offers a unique setting that was featured in the novel 'Mission of Vengeance.' It follows the story of CIA spymaster Corey Pearson, who lives with his family at a CIA safe house on the island. Corey's cover as a marine biologist allows him to explore the Sea of Abaco and study the wild Atlantic Spotted dolphins, while also using his skills to navigate the dangerous world of espionage.

     Although I stayed at the Conch Inn Marina in the capitol, Marsh Harbor, there’s a range of accommodation options to suit every budget and preference. If you want to indulge in some luxurious amenities, there’s several high-end resorts that offer world-class service and breathtaking views. The Abaco Club on Winding Bay is a standout choice, with a stunning golf course, fine dining options, and upscale accommodations. The Bahama Beach Club is another great option if you’re looking for a luxurious stay. Its suites are beyond elegant, and they overlook the Sea of Abaco.

     If you're more interested in a cozy, homey experience, Abaco has plenty of bed and breakfasts that offer a more intimate and authentic stay. The Firefly Sunset Resort is a charming B&B that's perfect for couples or families looking for a relaxing, laid-back stay. The Hope Town Harbour Lodge is another popular choice, with its comfortable accommodations and gorgeous views of the harbor.

     For budget-conscious travelers, there’s a variety of lower-priced accommodations that still offer all the amenities you need for a comfortable stay. The Abaco Inn is a quaint, beachfront inn that's perfect for travelers looking for a simple and affordable stay. The Green Turtle Club Resort & Marina is another good choice, with its comfortable rooms and convenient location near the town's restaurants and shops.

     In conclusion, Great Abaco Island in the Bahamas is a hidden gem that will offer you a unique blend of natural and cultural attractions, whether you’re a tourist, adventure seeker, or both. The Sea of Abaco, with its rich marine life, is home to a large pod of wild Atlantic Spotted dolphins, a must-see for those who visit the island. Abaco's cays offer a variety of activities, from hiking and exploring historic landmarks to relaxing on beautiful beaches like Great Guana Cay's Nipper's Bar.

     If you venture to Abaco, I hope you see the endangered Bahama Parrot, and explore the Abaco National Park...even take the intrepid journey to "Hole in the Wall". Great Abaco Island is truly a paradise waiting for you to discover. And who knows, maybe while you're exploring the island, you'll run into none other than Corey Pearson, the infamous CIA spymaster who's rumored to be hiding out there. Just keep your eyes peeled and your wits about you! 

Robert Morton is a member of the Association of Former Intelligence Officers (AFIO) and enjoys writing about the U.S. Intelligence Community. He authors the Corey Pearson- CIA Spymaster series. Check out his latest spy thrillers: MISSION OF VENGEANCE.